Wednesday, December 24, 2014
Wednesday, December 10, 2014
Tuesday, December 2, 2014
WHAT HAPPENS TO RABBITS IN THE WINTER?
Winter's cooler temperatures and lack of vegetation forces wild rabbits to spend more time in search of food. They often seek shelter in underground dens they have lined with grass, straw and twigs as insulators. Domesticated rabbits living in outdoor hutches rely on sensitive human companions that remember to provide additional protection from wind, rain and snow. During extreme cold temperatures -- below zero -- it's best to move domesticated rabbits inside.
Diet Changes In Winter
As noted by Fish and Game Magazine, the once abundant food supply wild rabbits enjoy is decimated by the onset and continuation of winter. Lush vegetation is withered away. Most of the clover, tender young plants, berries and vegetables are gone or difficult to find because they've already been consumed. Wild rabbits resort to eating woody plant parts including the twigs, bark and buds of trees and bushes. Penn State University explains the rabbit's year-round habit of eating their own pelleted feces becomes even more important in the winter months. Rabbits do so to extract additional nutrients because their digestive systems aren't particularly efficient.
Weary from Being Hunted
The winter months aren't tough on wild rabbits solely due to the lack of food. This is the time when humans and other animal predators target them as prey. Game and Fish Magazine states that wild rabbits are hunted in the winter months by house cats and bobcats on the ground and by hawks, owls and other feathered predators from the sky. Add people with shotguns, and wild rabbits face a variety of threats to their chances of surviving until the onset of spring.
Creative Hiding
The thickets and bushes rabbits hide amongst are reduced to bramble with no vegetative covering during winter. It's tough to hide just among stems and twigs. Brush piles and hollowed-out stumps and logs become effective refuge. Some rabbits change color to blend in with the predominantly white and gray landscape. Rabbits also stay put in cold weather to conserve energy. Game and Fish Magazine discusses how hunters walking too quickly in colder temperatures often don't spot rabbits that are in a holding pattern.
Domesticated Rabbits Need Hutch Protection
The Verlannahill Rabbitry states that rabbits can withstand cold much better than excessive heat. That's good news for keepers of domesticated rabbits in outdoor hutches. Rabbits can easily tolerate temperatures hovering at the freezing mark -- 32 degrees Fahrenheit -- or below provided they are sheltered from wind and wet. Use extra straw or other bedding to completely insulate one section of the hutch where your rabbits are protected. Do not enclose the entire hutch as rabbits do require fresh air.
Diet Changes In Winter
As noted by Fish and Game Magazine, the once abundant food supply wild rabbits enjoy is decimated by the onset and continuation of winter. Lush vegetation is withered away. Most of the clover, tender young plants, berries and vegetables are gone or difficult to find because they've already been consumed. Wild rabbits resort to eating woody plant parts including the twigs, bark and buds of trees and bushes. Penn State University explains the rabbit's year-round habit of eating their own pelleted feces becomes even more important in the winter months. Rabbits do so to extract additional nutrients because their digestive systems aren't particularly efficient.
Weary from Being Hunted
The winter months aren't tough on wild rabbits solely due to the lack of food. This is the time when humans and other animal predators target them as prey. Game and Fish Magazine states that wild rabbits are hunted in the winter months by house cats and bobcats on the ground and by hawks, owls and other feathered predators from the sky. Add people with shotguns, and wild rabbits face a variety of threats to their chances of surviving until the onset of spring.
Creative Hiding
The thickets and bushes rabbits hide amongst are reduced to bramble with no vegetative covering during winter. It's tough to hide just among stems and twigs. Brush piles and hollowed-out stumps and logs become effective refuge. Some rabbits change color to blend in with the predominantly white and gray landscape. Rabbits also stay put in cold weather to conserve energy. Game and Fish Magazine discusses how hunters walking too quickly in colder temperatures often don't spot rabbits that are in a holding pattern.
Domesticated Rabbits Need Hutch Protection
The Verlannahill Rabbitry states that rabbits can withstand cold much better than excessive heat. That's good news for keepers of domesticated rabbits in outdoor hutches. Rabbits can easily tolerate temperatures hovering at the freezing mark -- 32 degrees Fahrenheit -- or below provided they are sheltered from wind and wet. Use extra straw or other bedding to completely insulate one section of the hutch where your rabbits are protected. Do not enclose the entire hutch as rabbits do require fresh air.
Tuesday, November 11, 2014
Pumpkin Seeds - Buying, Selection and Saving
Seed Selection:
Experienced growers will tell you, that good seed is an important to a successful crop.
What this means is:
The seed is viable and a good germination rate(percentage of seeds sprouting) is likely to occur.
Genetics, genetics, genetics. If you want a large pumpkin, obtain seeds from a large fruited parent. However, not all large pumpkins are "pretty". You may have to sacrifice a little size for a rounder, oranger strain. Plant viruses can be stored in the seed, and carry into the next year's crop. Look for seed from an experienced grower, who rotates his crops, and knows to remove any diseased vegetation from his garden.
The seeds will produce the type of fruit you want. Cross-pollination is common among the Cucurbita Family. Any experienced home gardener has experienced a cross between a pumpkin and a zucchini at least once. The problem is that when cross-pollination occurs, the genetics are contained in the seed of the crossed fruit, and will not show up until next year. Experienced growers know how to minimize this risk.
Keep the above thoughts in mind, when you acquire seeds. But, do not let it deter you from either saving your own, or getting seed from another grower.
Saving Seeds:
Here are the simple steps for saving seed for next year:
1. Select large, healthy pumpkins from healthy plants. Remember, large begets large, and round begets round.
2. If one plant appears more disease resistant than others, use a pumpkin from this vine.
3. Select two or three (or more) pumpkins, if possible. Using several fruit increases the likelihood of good germination.
4. Extract the seeds from the pumpkins.
5. Wash and rinse seeds thoroughly, using soapy, lukewarm water. Do not use hot water, and do not soak them in water.
6. Drain seeds in a strainer.
7. Spread seed out on a screen.
8. Stir the seeds often the first two days. Turn them over as you stir.
9. Allow the seeds to air dry in a cool, dry area for three weeks. Longer is recommended. Do not cut the time short, even if the seeds appear "dry".
10. Store seeds in a bag, envelope or jar in a cool dry place. Use of an air tight jar is not recommended, because if the seeds have not thoroughly dried, they will mold and rot.
11. Mark the seeds with date and type of pumpkin.
12. Some people place the seed in a freezer for a couple of weeks before sowing them, to replicate nature's winter cycle. This is optional and I have seen no difference.
Experienced growers will tell you, that good seed is an important to a successful crop.
What this means is:
The seed is viable and a good germination rate(percentage of seeds sprouting) is likely to occur.
Genetics, genetics, genetics. If you want a large pumpkin, obtain seeds from a large fruited parent. However, not all large pumpkins are "pretty". You may have to sacrifice a little size for a rounder, oranger strain. Plant viruses can be stored in the seed, and carry into the next year's crop. Look for seed from an experienced grower, who rotates his crops, and knows to remove any diseased vegetation from his garden.
The seeds will produce the type of fruit you want. Cross-pollination is common among the Cucurbita Family. Any experienced home gardener has experienced a cross between a pumpkin and a zucchini at least once. The problem is that when cross-pollination occurs, the genetics are contained in the seed of the crossed fruit, and will not show up until next year. Experienced growers know how to minimize this risk.
Keep the above thoughts in mind, when you acquire seeds. But, do not let it deter you from either saving your own, or getting seed from another grower.
Saving Seeds:
Here are the simple steps for saving seed for next year:
1. Select large, healthy pumpkins from healthy plants. Remember, large begets large, and round begets round.
2. If one plant appears more disease resistant than others, use a pumpkin from this vine.
3. Select two or three (or more) pumpkins, if possible. Using several fruit increases the likelihood of good germination.
4. Extract the seeds from the pumpkins.
5. Wash and rinse seeds thoroughly, using soapy, lukewarm water. Do not use hot water, and do not soak them in water.
6. Drain seeds in a strainer.
7. Spread seed out on a screen.
8. Stir the seeds often the first two days. Turn them over as you stir.
9. Allow the seeds to air dry in a cool, dry area for three weeks. Longer is recommended. Do not cut the time short, even if the seeds appear "dry".
10. Store seeds in a bag, envelope or jar in a cool dry place. Use of an air tight jar is not recommended, because if the seeds have not thoroughly dried, they will mold and rot.
11. Mark the seeds with date and type of pumpkin.
12. Some people place the seed in a freezer for a couple of weeks before sowing them, to replicate nature's winter cycle. This is optional and I have seen no difference.
Tuesday, October 21, 2014
Growing Peppers
Choose a site with full sun for your pepper plot. Don't plant peppers where tomatoes or eggplants grew previously, because all three are members of the nightshade family and are subject to similar diseases. Make sure the soil drains well; standing water encourages root rot.
Garden centers offer a good variety of transplants, but the choices are greater when you grow peppers from seed. Pepper roots don't like to be disturbed, so plant them indoors in peat pots two months before the last frost date, sowing three seeds to a pot. Maintain the soil temperature at 75°F, and keep the seedlings moist, but not wet. Provide at least 5 hours of strong sunlight a day, or ideally, keep the plants under lights for 12 or more hours daily. Once the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin them by leaving the strongest plant in each pot and cutting the others off at soil level.
Seedlings are ready for the garden when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. Before moving the young plants to the garden, harden them off for about a week. Peppers are very susceptible to transplant "shock," which can interrupt growth for weeks. To avoid shocking the plants, make sure the soil temperature is at least 60°F before transplanting; this usually occurs 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost. Transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening to reduce the danger of sun scorch; if this is not possible, provide temporary shade for the transplanted seedlings.
When buying transplants, look for ones with strong stems and dark green leaves. Pass up those that already have tiny fruits on them, because such plants won't produce well. Peppers take at least 2 months from the time the plants are set out to the time they produce fruit, so short-season growers should select early-maturing cultivars.
Space transplants about 1½ feet apart in rows at least 2 feet apart, keeping in mind that most hot-pepper cultivars need less room than sweet ones. If the plot is exposed to winds, stake the plants, but put these supports in place before transplanting the seedlings to keep from damaging roots. To deter cutworms, place a cardboard collar around each stem, pushing it at least an inch into the ground. If the weather turns chilly and rainy, protect young plants with hotcaps.
Garden centers offer a good variety of transplants, but the choices are greater when you grow peppers from seed. Pepper roots don't like to be disturbed, so plant them indoors in peat pots two months before the last frost date, sowing three seeds to a pot. Maintain the soil temperature at 75°F, and keep the seedlings moist, but not wet. Provide at least 5 hours of strong sunlight a day, or ideally, keep the plants under lights for 12 or more hours daily. Once the seedlings are 2 to 3 inches tall, thin them by leaving the strongest plant in each pot and cutting the others off at soil level.
Seedlings are ready for the garden when they are 4 to 6 inches tall. Before moving the young plants to the garden, harden them off for about a week. Peppers are very susceptible to transplant "shock," which can interrupt growth for weeks. To avoid shocking the plants, make sure the soil temperature is at least 60°F before transplanting; this usually occurs 2 to 3 weeks after the last frost. Transplant on a cloudy day or in the evening to reduce the danger of sun scorch; if this is not possible, provide temporary shade for the transplanted seedlings.
When buying transplants, look for ones with strong stems and dark green leaves. Pass up those that already have tiny fruits on them, because such plants won't produce well. Peppers take at least 2 months from the time the plants are set out to the time they produce fruit, so short-season growers should select early-maturing cultivars.
Space transplants about 1½ feet apart in rows at least 2 feet apart, keeping in mind that most hot-pepper cultivars need less room than sweet ones. If the plot is exposed to winds, stake the plants, but put these supports in place before transplanting the seedlings to keep from damaging roots. To deter cutworms, place a cardboard collar around each stem, pushing it at least an inch into the ground. If the weather turns chilly and rainy, protect young plants with hotcaps.
Thursday, October 9, 2014
A first in Europe: Birth of four foals from genotyped, cryopreserved embryos !
Four foals were successfully born as the result of the transfer of genotyped and cryopreserved embryos. Researchers report that this is a first in Europe. The goal of this work is to better understand embryonic development, control livestock reproduction, and maintain breed genetic diversity. Furthermore, it is advantageous for the horse industry to be able to determine the traits of a future foal.
Genotyping allows scientists to choose the embryos they want to use based on different criteria: sex, like in this experiment, the absence of known genetic disorders, or, perhaps in the future, other traits that are tied to behavior, such as emotivity or sociability.
Tuesday, September 30, 2014
How to Feed a House Rabbit
Your house rabbit needs to have a good diet to stay healthy and live a long life. A well-balanced diet will consist of a good mix of hay, greens, food pellets, and the occasional healthy treat.
1. Give your rabbit plenty of hay. Hay is the most important part of your rabbit's diet, since it provides lots of fiber to aid digestion. A grass hay such as Timothy should be available at all times, allowing the rabbit to eat as much as he or she wants. You can add a variety of hays to encourage more hay consumption. Blue, Brome, Rye, Fescue, Orchard, and Timothy hay can make an tasty blend. Alfalfa can also be offered as an occasional treat to adult rabbits, and should be the primary hay given to babies.
2. Give leafy greens frequently. Look for greens that are dark in color, like dandelion, chicory, parsley, romaine lettuce and cilantro. Always buy organic lettuce. Wash the greens thoroughly before giving them to the rabbit. Depending on your rabbit's needs, sometimes you should only give greens once a week, but most rabbits like lettuce or other greens as one of their two meals every day. The other meal should be pellets (don't forget that hay should always be accessible).
3. Supplement your rabbit's diet with a good quality pellet. Contrary to popular belief, pellets are in fact the least important part of a healthy rabbit diet. Note: Even when you are planning on changing your bunny to a healthier pellet, do so gradually, mixing in more of the new with the old over a months time. This will prevent serious digestive upsets. Feed your adult rabbits a small amount of pellets daily, about 1/4 cup for every five pounds of body weight. Babies that are weaned should have unlimited alfalfa based pellets because alfalfa has extra calories.
4. Keep your rabbit supplied with fresh water. Like all animals, rabbits need fresh water. You can use a heavy bowl or a water bottle. Some rabbits prefer one over the other. A water bottle may need to be changed less frequently than a bowl, which can easily collect rabbit hair and other pollutants. Either will need to be changed and cleaned regularly. A stuck nozzle or broken water bottle can easily go unnoticed. Make sure to do a quick daily check of your water bottle. A simple push of your finger on the nozzle will help ensure it is working properly.
5. Feed your rabbit small amounts of healthy treats, occasionally. Small slices of carrot, banana, apple or a few cheerios make good treats. A couple of raisins is another fun snack. Treats should make up only a tiny portion of your rabbit's diet. For bunnies with extra sensitive digestive systems, use mint, basil and rosemary as a healthy sugarless treat. Other good treats are small amounts of carrot, (unlike Bugs Bunny, a real rabbit can get very sick from eating a lot of carrot) dried banana chips, fresh banana, apple, blueberries, strawberries, wild strawberries, (best from your own backyard) and wild cherry tree branches (not the kind of tree that actually grows cherries). Again, please do not feed your rabbit treats too much otherwise it could make your rabbit sick! All the listed treats should be selectively given except for wild cherry tree branches as they are good for rabbit's teeth to chew on (giving them cardboard toilet paper rolls after they have been used is also a good idea if they don't have much glue on them and is also a good way to recycle).
1. Give your rabbit plenty of hay. Hay is the most important part of your rabbit's diet, since it provides lots of fiber to aid digestion. A grass hay such as Timothy should be available at all times, allowing the rabbit to eat as much as he or she wants. You can add a variety of hays to encourage more hay consumption. Blue, Brome, Rye, Fescue, Orchard, and Timothy hay can make an tasty blend. Alfalfa can also be offered as an occasional treat to adult rabbits, and should be the primary hay given to babies.
2. Give leafy greens frequently. Look for greens that are dark in color, like dandelion, chicory, parsley, romaine lettuce and cilantro. Always buy organic lettuce. Wash the greens thoroughly before giving them to the rabbit. Depending on your rabbit's needs, sometimes you should only give greens once a week, but most rabbits like lettuce or other greens as one of their two meals every day. The other meal should be pellets (don't forget that hay should always be accessible).
3. Supplement your rabbit's diet with a good quality pellet. Contrary to popular belief, pellets are in fact the least important part of a healthy rabbit diet. Note: Even when you are planning on changing your bunny to a healthier pellet, do so gradually, mixing in more of the new with the old over a months time. This will prevent serious digestive upsets. Feed your adult rabbits a small amount of pellets daily, about 1/4 cup for every five pounds of body weight. Babies that are weaned should have unlimited alfalfa based pellets because alfalfa has extra calories.
4. Keep your rabbit supplied with fresh water. Like all animals, rabbits need fresh water. You can use a heavy bowl or a water bottle. Some rabbits prefer one over the other. A water bottle may need to be changed less frequently than a bowl, which can easily collect rabbit hair and other pollutants. Either will need to be changed and cleaned regularly. A stuck nozzle or broken water bottle can easily go unnoticed. Make sure to do a quick daily check of your water bottle. A simple push of your finger on the nozzle will help ensure it is working properly.
5. Feed your rabbit small amounts of healthy treats, occasionally. Small slices of carrot, banana, apple or a few cheerios make good treats. A couple of raisins is another fun snack. Treats should make up only a tiny portion of your rabbit's diet. For bunnies with extra sensitive digestive systems, use mint, basil and rosemary as a healthy sugarless treat. Other good treats are small amounts of carrot, (unlike Bugs Bunny, a real rabbit can get very sick from eating a lot of carrot) dried banana chips, fresh banana, apple, blueberries, strawberries, wild strawberries, (best from your own backyard) and wild cherry tree branches (not the kind of tree that actually grows cherries). Again, please do not feed your rabbit treats too much otherwise it could make your rabbit sick! All the listed treats should be selectively given except for wild cherry tree branches as they are good for rabbit's teeth to chew on (giving them cardboard toilet paper rolls after they have been used is also a good idea if they don't have much glue on them and is also a good way to recycle).
Friday, September 5, 2014
Storing Vegetables for Winter
Vegetable gardens may close down for the winter in cold climates, but that doesn't mean we can't still enjoy the vegetables we grew. Many vegetables will keep for months in cold storage, if you can provide the right conditions. Choose your vegetables well, keep an eye on them through out the winter and don't be shy about using them. They won't last forever.
1. Store only fully mature vegetables. Immature fruits and vegetables will rot quickly. Hold off harvesting as long as possible, especially with root vegetables, that can withstand some frost.
2. Do not store vegetables that have been bruised or nicked or that show the slightest sign of rot. Be careful when handling them.
3. Remove all excess soil. Don't wash the vegetables, just let them dry and brush off the soil. You can wash them well before using them.
4. Thoroughly clean your storage area before each use.
5. Keep the storage area dark.
6. Do not expose stored vegetables to temperatures below freezing.
7. Check on your stored vegetables every week or two. Storage times are just approximations, since vegetables, temperatures and conditions can vary widely.
8. Use vegetables taken from cold storage as soon as possible. They will not last as long as they would if they had been freshly picked.
Thursday, July 10, 2014
The health benefits of turkey
The pros
Turkey is a rich source of protein.
Skinless turkey is low in fat. White meat is lower in kilojoules and has less fat than the dark meat. A typical turkey consists of 70 per cent white meat and 30 per cent dark meat.
Turkey meat is a source of iron, zinc, potassium and phosphorus.
It is also a source of vitamin B6 and niacin, which are both essential for the body's energy production.
Regular turkey consumption can help lower cholesterol levels. The meat is low-GI and can help keep insulin levels stable.
Turkey contains the amino acid tryptophan, which produces serotonin and plays an important role in strengthening the immune system.
It is also a source of selenium, which is essential for thyroid hormone metabolism. It also boosts immunity and acts as an antioxidant.
The cons
Turkey can be high in sodium.
Some meat, particularly prepackaged slices, can be processed and contain other substances.Turkey skin is high in fat.
Research suggests large amounts of tryptophan can make you sleepy.
Monday, July 7, 2014
Raising Chickens and Its Benefits
It looks like everyone is enticed to raise their own chickens at home. I wouldn’t wonder why they are tempted in doing so. Raising your own chickens offers a lot of benefits. You can have your own chicken meat and eggs. These might be the obvious benefits, but they do not end there. Raising chickens can give you more on what you don’t expect. In this article, we will find out the other benefits of raising chickens in your own home.
Healthier and tastier load of eggs
You may not know this but raising your own chickens in your backyard can give you a healthier load of eggs. Chickens grown in factory farms don’t have the privilege to explore nature, do a little chicken exercise and peck bugs. When these factory farmed chickens lay eggs, the eggs are less nutritious since the hens are deprived of doing natural chickenish things.
Factory farms of chickens are mostly concerned of producing more eggs than focusing on the egg’s quality.
In fact, backyard chicken eggs have a greater percentage of Vitamin E, Vitamin A, beta carotene and omega-3 fatty acids. If the eggs are from your backyard, they are undoubtedly tastier than eggs that you bought in grocery stores. Backyard chicken eggs have firmer whites and brighter yolks.
Fresh supply of chicken meat
Just like the eggs, chickens grown in your own backyard will yield a fresher supply of chicken meat. Since your chickens have the freedom of exploring your backyard, they develop leaner muscles which are actually good during your cooking sessions. Aside from that, whenever you run out of chicken meat, you can always depend on your backyard chickens. Feel free to have a fresh supply of chicken meat whenever you like.
Better compost pit
Chicken droppings are nice things to add in your compost pit. Their droppings are actually rich in nitrogen. Nitrogen for plants is as important as oxygen for humans. With nitrogen, plants can do a better job of cellular respiration; thus, having a better performance in the process of chlorophyll synthesis. Your plants and vegetables will have fuller and greener leaves. As you grow chickens, you can also grow better plants and vegetation. Wouldn’t that be great?
Natural insect control
Chickens love to peck on bugs and other insects. Bugs and insects are naturally the enemies of your vegetation. They nibble on leaves and chew on the root crops. With chickens around, they can help you
minimize the population of insect pests in your garden. Their constant pecking and scratching are a perfect way to save your garden from deteriorating because of insect pests. However, be sure to put a little fencing on your sensitive plants. The chickens might not be able to hold their continuous habit of scratching.
Stress reliever
Just like any other hobby, raising chickens is a way of relieving your stress. It kills your boredom when you have nothing to do at home. They are also fun and interesting to watch. Undoubtedly, raising chickens have a lot of benefits to offer.
Thursday, June 19, 2014
Selling Goat Milk Legally
Raising goats is part of a green, sustainable lifestyle, but if you want to sell your goat milk, you have to understand the laws. Although selling anything other than Grade "A" pasteurized milk is illegal in 46 states, farmers can still sell raw milk legally in 32 states. The states that have legalized the sale of milk that's not from a grade A dairy or pasteurized have done so by passing additional laws or administrative rules.
In 1924, the United States Public Health Service (USPHS) developed a model law called the Pasteurized Milk Ordinance (PMO) to stop milk-borne illness. The intent of the law was to require that only Grade "A" pasteurized milk could be sold to consumers and businesses. So far, all but four states have passed the law or a modified version of it.
Small milk producers have gone around the law by selling shares in their animals, and some state regulators have chosen not to intervene. The share plan, which has been adopted by some people with cows, is like the community supported agriculture (CSA) model, in which people invest in (buy a share of) a farm and get vegetables and fruits throughout the season — only in this case they get milk.
Even if you can't sell milk for human consumption, you may be able to sell it to people for their pigs, dogs, or orphaned animals. In every state but Michigan, goat owners can legally sell raw milk for animal consumption.
Legally selling milk products such as yogurt or cheese without being licensed as a dairy is another story. Most states prohibit sales of these items by small, unlicensed farmers, although in some states the authorities' policy is not to actively seek out people who are selling these products outside of the law.
Small milk producers have gone around the law by selling shares in their animals, and some state regulators have chosen not to intervene. The share plan, which has been adopted by some people with cows, is like the community supported agriculture (CSA) model, in which people invest in (buy a share of) a farm and get vegetables and fruits throughout the season — only in this case they get milk.
Even if you can't sell milk for human consumption, you may be able to sell it to people for their pigs, dogs, or orphaned animals. In every state but Michigan, goat owners can legally sell raw milk for animal consumption.
Legally selling milk products such as yogurt or cheese without being licensed as a dairy is another story. Most states prohibit sales of these items by small, unlicensed farmers, although in some states the authorities' policy is not to actively seek out people who are selling these products outside of the law.
Monday, June 2, 2014
Providing Shelter for Your Goats
To keep your goats safe, you need to provide them shelter. How elaborate your goat shelter is depends on where you live, what structures are available, how much you can afford, and how many goats you plan to have in the shelter. Some of the things to consider when deciding where your goats will live include:
Flooring: Dirt or gravel floors are best, although some people prefer wood. Dirt absorbs urine, and both gravel and dirt, when covered with straw, are warm. Avoid concrete because it's cold and hard on the goats' bodies, although it's easier to clean.
Bedding: Regardless of type of flooring, you need to use some sort of bedding for warmth and comfort. If you do have to use a concrete floor, make sure to put down 3 to 4 inches of wood shavings or straw to insulate the goats.
Dimensions: Consider the height and width of the shelter. Goats need to have 10 to 15 square feet of housing if they also have an outdoor area. When building, think about how easy it will be to muck out old bedding. Having to bend over or stretch a long way while mucking is uncomfortable and hard on your back, so if the goat shelter you build won't be taller than you are, don't make it too deep.
Climate: An open shelter may be fine in a mild, dry climate with good fencing from predators, but it won't work in an area of heavy snow and wind or the open range. Make sure that your building is in an area with good drainage and, if it is open, that it faces away from the prevailing wind.
Herd composition: If you have or plan to have a lot of goats, you need to make sure you have a large enough structure or plan to build more shelters over time. Groups such as bucks, does, and kids to be weaned need separate housing areas.
Storage: Remember that you need to have an accessible (to you, not the goats) place to store feed and goat-care tools.
Access to water: Having easy access to water, but it isn't critical in most cases. Just remember that if you don't have a water source close to your goats' area, you'll be hauling water every day for a long time.
Other considerations: Regardless of the breed, you need an area for doing routine care, such as hoof trimming or clipping. If you're raising dairy goats, you can use the same space for milking. In addition, if you're planning to breed your goats, you need kidding pens, which can be 4 feet by 5 feet; the number that you need depends on how many goats are kidding at one time. Plan on leaving your goats with their babies in kidding pens for two to three days, and make sure that you stagger their breeding so they have a place to go.
Flooring: Dirt or gravel floors are best, although some people prefer wood. Dirt absorbs urine, and both gravel and dirt, when covered with straw, are warm. Avoid concrete because it's cold and hard on the goats' bodies, although it's easier to clean.
Bedding: Regardless of type of flooring, you need to use some sort of bedding for warmth and comfort. If you do have to use a concrete floor, make sure to put down 3 to 4 inches of wood shavings or straw to insulate the goats.
Dimensions: Consider the height and width of the shelter. Goats need to have 10 to 15 square feet of housing if they also have an outdoor area. When building, think about how easy it will be to muck out old bedding. Having to bend over or stretch a long way while mucking is uncomfortable and hard on your back, so if the goat shelter you build won't be taller than you are, don't make it too deep.
Climate: An open shelter may be fine in a mild, dry climate with good fencing from predators, but it won't work in an area of heavy snow and wind or the open range. Make sure that your building is in an area with good drainage and, if it is open, that it faces away from the prevailing wind.
Herd composition: If you have or plan to have a lot of goats, you need to make sure you have a large enough structure or plan to build more shelters over time. Groups such as bucks, does, and kids to be weaned need separate housing areas.
Storage: Remember that you need to have an accessible (to you, not the goats) place to store feed and goat-care tools.
Access to water: Having easy access to water, but it isn't critical in most cases. Just remember that if you don't have a water source close to your goats' area, you'll be hauling water every day for a long time.
Other considerations: Regardless of the breed, you need an area for doing routine care, such as hoof trimming or clipping. If you're raising dairy goats, you can use the same space for milking. In addition, if you're planning to breed your goats, you need kidding pens, which can be 4 feet by 5 feet; the number that you need depends on how many goats are kidding at one time. Plan on leaving your goats with their babies in kidding pens for two to three days, and make sure that you stagger their breeding so they have a place to go.
Monday, May 12, 2014
Miniature Dairy Goat Breeds
If you want to raise goats to promote a more sustainable lifestyle, but you have limited space or don't want to be drowning in goat milk, the miniature dairy breeds might be good choices for you.
Miniature breeds are relatively new to the scene but are growing in popularity. Miniature dairy goats include Nigerian Dwarves, Pygmies, and the most recent development in dairy goats in the United States: miniature, crossbred versions of the standard breeds, called minis. Check out these miniatures:
Nigerian Dwarf: Nigerian Dwarves came to the United States from Africa. They are not true dwarves because they are proportionate in size. They are colorful, friendly, easy to handle, and in some cases good milk producers.
The Nigerian Dwarf Goat Association allows 17 to 21 inches for does and 19 to 23 inches for bucks, while the American Goat Society allows a maximum of 22.5 inches for does and 23.5 inches for bucks. They average around 75 pounds.
Some urban goat farmers shy away from the Nigerians, despite their petite size, because they can be loud. But their kids are the cutest things around, and Nigerian Dwarves have a lot of them. The does tend to be easy kidders and natural mothers.
Some Nigerian Dwarves give only about a pound (one pint) of milk per day, but others produce as much as 8 pounds (a half-gallon). A lot of them are hard to milk because of their small teats, but others have been bred to alleviate this problem.
You can eat a Nigerian, but most people don't. It isn't cost effective, and besides, they're so darn cute!
Pygmy: Pygmy goats aren't usually considered dairy goats, but they can be milked. Most of them are raised as pets or 4-H projects, but a small minority of breeders raise them for milk. The Pygmies raised for milk tend to look more like Nigerians in body shape. If you want Pygmies for milk, make sure to ask whether they're registered with the American Goat Society and whether the breeder is milking them.
Pygmies have been bred to be short and stocky and are more limited in color, ranging from white to brown to black with only minor variations. Because they have been bred down to a short, compact size, Pygmies often have problems kidding and need the services of a veterinarian for cesareans. They are not quite as prolific as the Nigerians, either.
Kinder: The Kinder is a moderate-sized breed that was developed in Washington and first registered in 1988. It is a cross between the Pygmy and Nubian breeds. Kinders are good dual-purpose (milk and meat) goats that are ideal for family farms.
Minis: If you really like one of the standard breeds but are in the city or just don't have the space for big goats, minis are ideal. These goats are a cross between a Nigerian Dwarf buck and a doe of the breed you want to miniaturize.
Monday, April 14, 2014
Alpine Dairy Goats
The Alpine Dairy Goat is also referred to as the French Alpine and registration papers for this dairy goat use both designations and they are synonymous. The Alpine dairy goat is a medium to large size animal, alertly graceful, and the only breed with upright ears that offers all colors and combinations of colors giving them distinction and individuality. They are hardy, adaptable animals that thrive in any climate while.
The Alpine goat is referred to as the French Alpine goat. Known for its milk, the Alpine goat is famous for its rich dairy production. Alpine milk contains the lowest fat content of all milks(3.1 g/ 250ml), including that of Human’s and cows. It is higher in Sugar’s than cow’s milk but balances it self in terms of the amount of protein. Alpine Goats milk has 2.3g of protein per 250ml while Cow’s milk has 3.4. A higher protein count is not always good, since it packs more calories with a increased fat content. Compared to Saanen Goat Milk, it is higher in all nutritional aspects. Except the fat content. Making it a much better choice.
The Alpine goat is referred to as the French Alpine goat. Known for its milk, the Alpine goat is famous for its rich dairy production. Alpine milk contains the lowest fat content of all milks(3.1 g/ 250ml), including that of Human’s and cows. It is higher in Sugar’s than cow’s milk but balances it self in terms of the amount of protein. Alpine Goats milk has 2.3g of protein per 250ml while Cow’s milk has 3.4. A higher protein count is not always good, since it packs more calories with a increased fat content. Compared to Saanen Goat Milk, it is higher in all nutritional aspects. Except the fat content. Making it a much better choice.
Thursday, March 20, 2014
Pig Farming - 4 Key Factors For Beginners
Remember that the learning process should be in a slow and steady manner. You have to balance keeping your business sustainable while at the same time learning new things to further improve your farm. Starting a pig farm should always include doing research, and making the most out of your resources. Keep in mind that profit is the goal, but you should not compromise the health or overall status of your farm. In order to achieve the later, you really should be prepared to make a good investment. This would include equipment, animals, workers and other related particulars.
During your planning, you might have this notion that pig farming is a dirty job. In reality, pigs are actually very clean creatures. They only seem to look filthy because of the fact that they tend to wallow in mud or water. Well, the level of cleanliness in your farm would actually depend entirely on your management practice or scheme. Keep in mind that like people, your animals also eat, sleep and defecate so they need regular cleaning, feeding and medication to keep them healthy. After all, you will be selling these pigs for human consumption so they need to be quite hygienic.
The good thing about pigs is the fact that they do not excrete their wastes (urination and defecation) in the same place where they sleep. Even inside a pen, you would notice that a particular area of the pen is designated as the "bathroom". What is the significance of this?
Well, when farming pigs you must understand that cleaning would be much easier to facilitate when you have small gutters on the side of the pen. Also, it is more ideal to have sloped flooring for your pens since this would facilitate the movement of excretions from the pen floor towards the gutter. This is less laborious and more efficient than having to consistently scrub the floor. Bear in mind this principle when you are constructing pens for your farm.
Aside from the flooring and pen design, your building should be constructed well. This means that you should have proper ventilation within the pen so as to keep the air circulating. Remember that feces and urine would have a bad or offensive odor which can also be irritating for pigs, so circulation of air is very important. This also helps to prevent the accumulation of noxious substances such as ammonia in the building. Just be cautious that your building should not be too breezy or allow too much draft to enter since this can cause pneumonia and/or other respiratory problems.
Pig farming may seem like a really big task that can easily overwhelm someone who does not have the right information and does not understand the science behind it. Just always bear in mind that before you begin with your pig raising business, you should have given it enough thought and research so that you will be able to raise healthy and very productive animals. Pig farming may not be a piece of cake but with the power of information and the right set of tools, you will surely be able to turn your business into a success story.
Thursday, February 27, 2014
Goat Farming
Animal husbandry, is one of the oldest profession that has been taken up by mankind. This profession has been highly instrumental in providing the mankind with #meat, #milk and leather. Today, there are many scientific techniques that have been introduced in the #animal husbandry, which has made the activity more fruitful and economically successful. #Farming of #goats for milk and meat supply is one such technique.
The domestic goat, which is also known as Capra aegagrus hircus, was domesticated from the wild goat, when man started settling down and started the development of civilization. It has been suggested that one of the initial attempts of domesticating and rearing goats started in Eastern Europe and Asia. The goat is also one of the animal that has been tamed very easily by mankind.
Cows and larger cattle is tamed and used on large farms, that are termed as ranches. Earlier, goats were domesticated only by nomads on a very small scale, with very few number of goat farms in operation. Of late rising food prices, and rising operational costs has led to the development of many goat farms across the world. The advantage of goat farms is the goats are very easy to maintain, and at the same time, they can also be used for multiple profitable purposes.
One of the most valuable product that is derived from goats is goat meat. In many nations around the world, goat meat is known as 'mutton'. On the other hand, in nations such as the United States, the meat is known as 'chevon'. It must be noted that chevon or mutton contain much less fat and cholesterol than any other type of meat. The low fat and cholesterol are probably the explanation for the rising demand of goat meat. Goat meat is used in several different recipes in different forms such as stewed, baked, baked grilled and barbecued meat. Rearing them for meat has thus become a very profitable business. Some goat breeds that have gained widespread popularity as a result of their meat are:
Goat milk is very nutritious and can be used in many different agro-processed foods such as butter, cheese and cream. Goat cheese is often termed as chèvre. Goat milk is also often used to make the famous Mexican Cajeta, which is a very sweet drink. The milk of goats is extremely nutritious. It basically contains almost no fats and is a reservoir of proteins. The nutrients that are derived from the goat milk are also healthy and are not stored away by the body as fats. In any rural areas, especially in South East Asia, goats are domesticated by rural populations, for its healthy milk. The basics of farming are provided to many people from rural areas for this purpose. Breeding and boarding of goats for their milk and milk products has thus become a very profitable business in many rural areas.
There are many other factors that you will need to consider, while framing a business plan for farming. The goats provide us with effective and sturdy fiber. You can also purchase wool bearing goat breeds such as Angora goat and Cashmere goats. The wool that is provided by these goats is very strong and can be used to make woolen clothing.
Rearing goat for profit is an upcoming venture that can be used to churn out cheap meat and milk supply. The farming of goats will also involve the breeding, care and welfare of this vital farm animal.
Wednesday, February 5, 2014
Return of the bat: European species make a comeback
#Bat numbers – collected from 6000 hibernation sites in nine #European countries – have increased by 43 per cent between 1993 and 2014, according to a new report by the European Environment Agency (EEA). The study, which tracks 16 of Europe's 45 bat species, is the most comprehensive population study of #bats on the continent to date.
"This trend is a definite sign of hope," says Karen Haysom, director of science at the British Bat Conservation Trust, a partner in the study.
Armed with a statistical method that proved key in earlier EEA studies of European butterfly and bird population trends, Haysom and her collaborators input decades of national bat data into a dataset that revealed how bat numbers changed from winter to winter according to species and region. Never before had such data – reported by scientists and also by thousands of amateur bat enthusiasts, who counted hibernating #animals in local caves and other roosts – been consolidated over such a broad time span and geography, Haysom says.
"This is giving us a chance to put our numbers in a different and very valuable context, and think about why some bat species are doing well in some countries compared with others," she says. Population trends were calculated in Latvia, Hungary, The Netherlands, Austria, Portugal, Slovenia, Slovakia, Germany and the UK.
Friday, January 10, 2014
Ralph, World's Largest Bunny Rabbit, Weighs 55 Pounds And Eats $90 Of Food A Week !
Ralph, a 4-year-old Continental Giant from the United Kingdom, reclaimed the Guinness World Record for the largest #rabbit.
The bodacious #bunny binges on about $90 worth of #food a week. Each insane daily meal includes #cabbage, #broccoli, #corn on the cob, half a cucumber, a #carrot, sweetcorn, two slices of brown bread, two #apples, half a bag of watercress and crackers.
"Ralph has matured now and is the heaviest he has ever been," his owner, Pauline Grant, told the Daily Mail.
She cares for Ralph at her horse rescue facility in East Sussex, and relies on donations from visitors to help feed the behemoth. She says Ralph is "fine and healthy."
"We have got a big place here and he can go anywhere he wants. He has a fantastic life and is not just kept in a hut. His diet is incredible," she said.
He comes from a line of gentle giants. His mom, Amy, held the record for biggest #bunny until she died of a heart attack four years ago, and his dad's heft earned the previous record.
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